Kyushu's geothermal capital. Eight 'hells' steam round-the-clock through the city, jigoku-mushi cuisine cooks food directly in the volcanic vents, and Bungo wagyu and toriten anchor the dinner scene.
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Beppu cooks with the volcano. The Oita-prefecture port. Population 115,000, half an hour east of Oita City and ninety minutes from Fukuoka. Sits on a geothermal field that produces more hot-spring water by volume than any other city in the world. The eight 'jigoku' (hells). Vivid colour-saturated thermal pools dotted across the Kannawa onsen district. Are the city's tourist set-piece, but they're also the basis of the city's distinctive cuisine: jigoku-mushi, the steam-cooking method where food is placed in bamboo baskets directly over volcanic vents and steamed in the natural ninety-degree geothermal vapour.
The dining map runs across two zones. The Kannawa onsen district to the north holds the jigoku-mushi cooking centres (the Jigoku-Mushi Kobo Kannawa is the most-visited; the Hyotan and Kamado onsens have smaller versions) and a handful of older ryotei that use thermal-steam in their kaiseki menus. The central downtown area near Beppu Station holds the formal dining rooms. The iconic Toyotsune (the founder of toriten chicken-tempura), several Bungo-gyu wagyu specialists, and the better seafood restaurants working with same-day Bungo Bay catch.
Reservations matter at the Bungo-gyu kaiseki rooms (a week ahead) and at the better fish restaurants on weekends. Jigoku-mushi cooking centres take walk-ins by definition (you cook your own ingredients in the steam baskets) and English signage is universal at all the tourist-facing addresses. Tipping is not done.
Pair the food with Oita's local sake. The prefecture's brewing tradition is smaller than Yamaguchi's or Hyogo's but the better restaurants pour Nishi-no-Seki, Saiki, or the locally famous Yatsushika. The proper Beppu dinner ends with a soak in one of the eight hells (most close at sunset, but the smaller Kannawa local-resident bathhouses run until 11pm). Eat, bathe, sleep in a ryokan, repeat.
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