Every safari into the Okavango Delta starts or ends with a meal in Maun, and the town has built its tables accordingly. Old Bridge Backpackers serves kudu burgers on a deck over the Thamalakane River; Safari Bar & Grill is where the operators themselves eat between trips; and twenty kilometres east, Thamalakane River Lodge plates dinner on a stone terrace while crocodiles drift past. Nothing here performs for the camera. It feeds people who drive into the bush at dawn.
How Maun Eats
The clock runs early. Kitchens open for breakfast at seven, the safari trade eats dinner at six-thirty, and most kitchens take last orders between eight and nine; Old Bridge's kitchen closes at eight sharp. Arrive at nine expecting dinner and you will be eating bar snacks.
Game meat is the menu's spine. Kudu, locally farmed beef, and Botswana's excellent oxtail appear everywhere from backpacker decks to lodge terraces; the national staple seswaa, slow-pounded beef, is worth ordering whenever a kitchen admits to making it. Vegetarians do better than the reputation suggests, with lentil and bean burgers now standard.
Pay in pula, tip ten percent. Lodges and hotels take cards reliably; the town rooms prefer cash, and the ATM queue on a Friday is its own safari. A 10 percent tip is the convention, and a service charge appears only on lodge bills.
Season decides everything. June through October, the dry-season high, fills every deck and makes a dinner booking at the river lodges sensible; the green season, December to March, halves the town and brings mosquitoes to the riverbank at dusk, so pack repellent with your appetite.
Where to Eat Along the River
The Old Bridge. Old Bridge Backpackers is the town's common room: a riverside deck by the old wooden bridge where overlanders, pilots, and guides compare routes over kudu burgers and cold St Louis, kitchen open seven to eight daily.
The town centre. Safari Bar & Grill does the reliable kudu steak the operators order on repeat, and Cresta Riley's carries the hotel-dining-room tradition of Maun's oldest hotel name, cold Windhoek and Botswana beef under ceiling fans.
The airport gate. Bon Arrivée is the first and last meal of half the Delta's expeditions: a full English breakfast before the charter flight, a debrief coffee after.
Up the Thamalakane. Twenty kilometres east, Thamalakane River Lodge serves the area's most atmospheric dinner from stone chalets on the riverbank. Far beyond, in the Okavango panhandle, Xaro Lodge plates bush dinners on an island reached by boat, hippos providing the soundtrack.
The Maun Top 6
- Thamalakane River Lodge · Lodge dining · 20 km east · 150–350 BWP. A stone terrace on the riverbank with the Okavango's evening light and occasional crocodiles; Maun's most atmospheric table and worth the drive.
- Safari Bar & Grill · Grills · town centre · 90–220 BWP. Where the safari operators eat between trips; the kudu steak arrives correctly done every time, which in this town is the highest compliment.
- Old Bridge Backpackers · Deck kitchen · the Old Bridge · 60–150 BWP. The river deck every Delta traveller finds eventually: kudu burgers, stacked lentil burgers, and the best route gossip in Botswana, kitchen closing at eight.
- Cresta Riley's · Hotel dining · town centre · 100–250 BWP. The dining room of Maun's oldest hotel name, where the town's business has been settled over Botswana beef and cold Windhoek for generations.
- Xaro Lodge · Bush dining · Okavango panhandle · lodge rates. Dinner on a Delta island reached by boat, stars for a ceiling and hippos for ambient noise; the meal that justifies the word expedition.
- Bon Arrivée · Café · airport road · 50–120 BWP. The airport café sharpened: the full English that has launched more Delta expeditions than any other meal in Botswana.
Best for Each Occasion
Best for a first date. The river does the talking: a sunset table at Thamalakane River Lodge, or the deck at Old Bridge if the date wears dust well.
Best for closing a deal. Maun's deals are charter contracts and concession leases, and they close at Cresta Riley's, as they have for generations, or over a working lunch at Safari Bar & Grill.
Best for a birthday. Book the long table at Thamalakane River Lodge for the riverbank version, or commandeer the deck at Old Bridge and let the bar handle the rest.
Best for an expedition dinner. The night before the Delta: Safari Bar & Grill feeds the whole vehicle without fuss. The night after: Bon Arrivée coffee while the charter pilots file their paperwork.
Every Restaurant in Maun
Maun Dining Questions
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