Liège

Liège is the principal city of Wallonia and the cultural capital of French-speaking Belgium — a steeply-built city on the bend of the Meuse, with a centuries-old university tradition, a serious civic-cultural infrastructure and a dining scene that has, over the last decade, started to attract serious Michelin attention. The city is best known for its boulettes (Liège-style meatballs in a sweet syrup sauce), its waffles (an entirely different beast from the more famous Brussels variety) and its long-standing café and brasserie tradition. The contemporary fine-dining scene — anchored by the recently-Michelin-starred Toma! — adds a new layer to a food culture that already richly rewards the curious traveller.

The current generation of cooking in Liège rewards the curious diner: confident enough to depart from convention, disciplined enough to avoid novelty for novelty’s sake. The five restaurants ranked above represent the top of the city’s editorial pyramid — the rooms a serious diner should know by name. Below them sit dozens more establishments worth discovering, but the five above are where Liège dining starts.

Reservations at the top tier in Liège now require the same forethought as any major European capital. For Michelin-starred rooms in particular, treat the booking process as part of the experience: know the release date, refresh the page at the precise moment, and consider joining waitlists for cancellations. The restaurants worth the effort make it abundantly clear within five minutes of being seated.

Service culture in Liège sits between the formality of Paris and the warmth of southern Europe. Tipping is appreciated but not expected at the level common in North America; 10% of the pre-service total is generous. At the very top tier of restaurants, service charges are typically included in the menu price — confirm with the maître d’hôtel if uncertain. The quality of the cellar is invariably worth investing in: ask the sommelier’s opinion before defaulting to your own.