Eckstein has anchored the Mehlplatz in Graz's old town for over fifteen years, long enough to earn a Gault&Millau toque at 14 points and to survive a turbulent run of ownership. After an insolvency and a closure in 2020, the room was relaunched in 2021 by Daniel Marg and Gernot Büttner-Vorraber, who kept the kitchen's line: Styrian produce read through an international lens. The cold-smoked lake char with mustard caviar and black walnut salsa is the dish to know, mains run roughly €16 to €28, and the beer garden is among the best in the centre.
The Kitchen
Eckstein is a Graz old-town institution rather than a single-chef destination. It earned a Gault&Millau toque worth 14 points for its kitchen on the Mehlplatz, then went through an insolvency and a Corona-era closure before Daniel Marg and Gernot Büttner-Vorraber relaunched it in 2021. The cooking holds to Styrian roots opened up to international technique: the cold-smoked lake char with mustard caviar and black walnut salsa is the signature, the Eckstein Klassik beef tartare is a long-running starter at about €16, and the Styrian ox fillet at €28 is the bigger plate.
This is a kitchen that works across lunch and dinner without ceremony. A weekday lunch plate runs about €6.80, à la carte mains sit between €16 and €28, and a full dinner with wine lands around €40 to €70 a head. The wine cellar leans on Styrian whites with aged bottles for anyone who wants to dig deeper. The address is Mehlplatz 3 in the Altstadt, the room seats over 150 across the restaurant, and the beer garden is one of the reasons locals keep coming back.
The Room
Eckstein is a big, easy room on one of the prettiest squares in the Graz Altstadt. Inside it is warm and a little clubby, wood and low light, with a sound level that sits at a comfortable hum and rises when the place is full. The real asset is outside: a large beer garden on the Mehlplatz that fills on warm evenings. Tables range from couples to long group settings, and the 150-plus seats mean it absorbs a crowd. Dress is smart-casual; this is a relaxed city institution, not a formal dining room. Service is friendly and used to large parties.
Best for Team Dinner
Book Eckstein for a team dinner because it is built for numbers. With more than 150 seats and a large beer garden on the Mehlplatz, it takes a big group without feeling stretched, the Styrian menu has something for every eater from tartare to vegetarian gnocchi, and the central old-town location is easy for everyone to reach. Picture a long table in the garden on a warm evening, plates of char and ox fillet going round, Styrian wine by the bottle and no one watching the clock. For a relaxed company dinner in Graz, this works. See more restaurants for a team dinner.
Not for a hushed, formal tasting dinner. Eckstein is a large, lively institution with a busy beer garden, better suited to a relaxed group than a quiet table for two.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Eckstein in Graz worth it?
Yes, as a reliable Altstadt institution rather than a special-occasion blowout. Eckstein earned a Gault&Millau toque for its Styrian-international kitchen, the cold-smoked char and beef tartare are dependable, and prices are fair with mains from about €16. The draw is the central Mehlplatz setting and the beer garden as much as the food. Come for a relaxed, good-value dinner in the old town.
Who runs Eckstein now?
Eckstein on the Mehlplatz was relaunched in 2021 by Daniel Marg and Gernot Büttner-Vorraber, after an earlier run as 'Eckstein by Albert' ended with an insolvency and a 2020 closure. The kitchen kept its Styrian-international line and its Gault&Millau pedigree. It remains one of the longest-standing dining rooms in the Graz old town. See the Graz dining guide for more.
What should I order at Eckstein?
Order the cold-smoked lake char with mustard caviar and black walnut salsa, the dish the kitchen is known for. The Eckstein Klassik beef tartare is the starter to get at about €16, and the Styrian ox fillet at €28 is the main to build a dinner around. There is a vegetarian option such as pumpkin gnocchi, and the Styrian white wines are the pour to choose.
Is Eckstein good for a team or group dinner?
Yes. Eckstein is one of the better Graz options for a team dinner, with more than 150 seats, a large beer garden and a central Mehlplatz location that is easy to reach. The menu suits mixed groups and the kitchen is used to large parties. Book ahead for the garden in summer. See our team dinner picks.