Moma

The name is an abbreviation of the owners' surnames — but it functions equally well as a philosophy. Moma is a restaurant that has removed the intimidation from Michelin-starred dining without removing the quality. The building on Via San Basilio, a short walk from Via Veneto and Piazza Barberini, contains two distinct dining experiences occupying different floors and operating in different registers. Both are excellent. Together, they form one of Rome's most complete restaurants.

The ground floor is the bistro: a large bar, a bright room, an à la carte menu that spans Roman classics and creative dailyspecials. At lunch it fills with professionals from the surrounding offices, journalists, and the occasional well-dressed tourist who has done their research. The cooking here is precise and generous — better than any bistro has a right to be, which is explained by the fact that the same kitchen operates upstairs.

The first floor is the Michelin-starred restaurant, and this is where Chef Andrea Pasqualucci operates at full capacity. Pasqualucci is a Roman chef in the strict sense: his primary loyalty is to Italian ingredients and the traditions of Lazio, but he approaches them with a rigour and creativity that moves his cooking decisively beyond the traditional. Products are strictly seasonal, sourced from small-scale local producers who Pasqualucci knows personally. There are tasting menus at dinner — four and six courses — that trace a season's narrative through the Roman kitchen.

The value proposition is exceptional by the standards of starred dining in Rome. The four-course menu at dinner sits well below the investment required at any comparable address. For the quality of the cooking, this is the most efficient table in the city. Return on investment, in the literal and gastronomic sense, is exceptional.