Verso, Capitaneo

The Restaurant

Verso, Capitaneo opened in early 2023 in the most prestigious commercial address in Milan - the second floor of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, the nineteenth-century glass-and-iron shopping arcade that connects Piazza del Duomo to Piazza della Scala. Brothers Remo and Mario Capitaneo, both Puglia-born and trained through the Italian Riviera fine-dining circuit (notably Da Vittorio and the Ristorante Antica Osteria Cera in the Veneto), took over the restored historic space and earned their first Michelin star within four months of opening. The second star arrived six months later. No restaurant in modern Italian fine dining has climbed the Michelin ladder this quickly.

The room is built around a single dining experience: three long communal tables for roughly twenty-four guests in total, arranged in front of a fully open-view kitchen pass that turns service into theatre. The Capitaneo brothers cook each course themselves at the pass, plating the entire room in tight choreographed rhythm. The format is one tasting menu, eight to ten courses, with the kitchen building each evening around the same protein and produce arc - langoustines from Liguria, Puglian burrata flown up that morning, a single Piedmontese beef program, lemons from the brothers' uncle's Amalfi orchard.

Signature courses include a raw Sicilian red prawn dressed only with the brothers' aged citrus reduction, a hand-cut tagliolino with smoked butter and Calvisius caviar, and a slow-cooked pigeon over its own jus that has become a benchmark for two-star Italian poultry cookery. The wine pairing is built almost entirely from small-grower Italian cellars - serious depth in Etna, Mount Vesuvius, and the Langhe - and the sommelier team can talk the room through it course by course in fluent English. The bottle list opens at EUR 90 and runs to four-figure Barolos and Burgundies for the corporate guests the Galleria address attracts.