Le Train Bleu was inaugurated in 1901 for the Paris World Exhibition at the heart of Gare de Lyon — the station from which Parisians departed for the south of France, for the Côte d'Azur, for the Blue Train (Le Train Bleu) that gave the restaurant its name and ran overnight to Nice and Monte Carlo. It was designed to communicate the romance and ambition of the railway age at its summit, and the result — a vast restaurant of the highest decorative ambition, with gilded ceilings, marble columns, and 41 large oil paintings by the leading artists of the Belle Époque era — achieved precisely that. The entire space was classified as a historic monument in 1972, and virtually nothing of the original decoration has been altered since.
The 41 paintings, commissioned from 30 artists for the restaurant's opening, depict cities, landscapes, and scenes along the Paris-Lyon-Méditerranée railway line — Avignon, Lyon, Menton, Monte Carlo — in a style that combines academic realism with the optimism of the early 20th century. Each dining hall is named for a region: the Salle du Dauphiné, the Salle de la Provence, the Grande Salle. The chandeliers, of considerable weight and elaboration, cast a golden light across tables that have accommodated, over 125 years, Coco Chanel, Brigitte Bardot, Jean Cocteau, Salvador Dalí, and virtually every significant figure who moved through Paris in the 20th century.
The food is classic French brasserie — not at the level of a gastronomic restaurant, but seriously prepared and appropriate to the setting. The foie gras terrine, the sole meunière, the côte de bœuf for two, and the rum baba have each been on the menu for decades. The wine list is respectable and well-priced for the prestige of the address. What Le Train Bleu offers is not the finest cooking in Paris, but something no kitchen can manufacture: a dining room of such decorative perfection that it elevates every meal served within it into an experience of a different order entirely.
For visitors to Paris with limited time, Le Train Bleu resolves a particular problem — it is inside the station itself, accessible without a cab or metro, and represents a meal that is both genuinely exceptional as an experience and priced at a level that does not require the occasion to be extraordinary.