Chef Daisuke Nakazawa trained under the legendary Jiro Ono for eleven years — long enough to appear in the documentary that introduced Jiro to the world, and long enough to absorb a philosophy of sushi that prioritises absolute mastery of fundamentals over novelty. When Nakazawa opened his own restaurant at 23 Commerce Street in the West Village in 2013, New York understood immediately that something important had arrived. A Michelin star followed. The lines to get in have not shortened in the decade since.
The 21-piece omakase — $250 at the sushi counter, $150 in the dining room — unfolds with the deliberate pacing of a master class. Nakazawa sources fish from Japan's Tsukiji and Toyosu markets, from the United States, and wherever the best fish happens to be on a given day. The rice is seasoned with red vinegar in the tradition of Edo-style sushi, a choice that gives each piece a slightly darker, more complex base that rewards attention. The progression from lighter, more delicate fish to richer, more intense preparations mirrors the logic of classical omakase composition.
The room is handsome and serene, finished in wood and warm light that never competes with the food. The counter seating is the optimal position — close enough to watch Nakazawa work, far enough to maintain the intimacy of the experience. The sushi bar seats ten; the dining room seats an additional thirty. The gap in experience between the two formats is significant and worth the premium.
