Three one-star kitchens sit within a 1.5-kilometre walk of one another along the Corso Umberto, the kind of density you expect from a capital and not a Sicilian hill town of 53,000. Modica earned it the slow way. A baroque rebuild followed the 1693 earthquake, the Spanish left behind a raw-cocoa chocolate trade that the town never modernised, and a run of chefs led by Accursio Craparo and Peppe Barone stayed put instead of decamping to Milan. The town divides into two halves, Modica Bassa on the valley floor and Modica Alta up the staircase, and the best tables are split between them.
How Modica Eats
Dinner runs late by northern-European habit. Kitchens open around 20:00 and fill by 21:00, and most Sicilians will not sit before then. Lunch is the value play: Accursio serves a 60-euro lunch tasting against roughly 130 euros at dinner, so the midday booking is the clever one if the bill matters.
The bill itself carries a coperto (cover charge) of two to four euros per person, which is bread-and-linen, not a tip. Service is included, so tipping is not expected; rounding up or leaving five to ten percent for a standout meal reads as generous rather than required. Cards are taken everywhere, though small pasticcerie like Bonajuto still move briskly on cash.
Reservations are easier than in Palermo or Taormina, but the rooms are tiny. Accursio holds 30 covers and Sapori Perduti 42, so a week ahead is enough in spring or autumn, while July and August and the December Chocomodica festival want three to four weeks. Phone or email beats waiting on an app, because not every kitchen lists on OpenTable. Many close Monday or Tuesday and take a winter riposo through parts of January. Dress is smart-casual throughout; no Modica room, star or not, asks for a jacket, and the upper-town terraces run cool after dark even in summer.
Best Neighbourhoods for Dinner
Corso Umberto I (Modica Bassa). The valley spine and the obvious first walk. Antica Dolceria Bonajuto sits at number 159 and Osteria dei Sapori Perduti at number 228, a few minutes apart, so you can take chocolate at one and dinner at the other.
Via Grimaldi and the lower lanes. Just off the Corso in Modica Bassa, this is where Accursio occupies a converted palazzo at number 41. It is the address that put the town on the Michelin map.
Modica Alta, around the Duomo di San Giorgio. Up the long staircase, the upper town holds La Locanda del Colonnello inside Hotel Palazzo Failla on Via Blandini, whose terrace looks straight down the canyon.
Vico Napolitano and the upper alleys. A short walk from San Giorgio, Fattoria delle Torri sits in the most architecturally distinctive setting in Modica Alta, with the Iblei farms supplying its kitchen.
The Modica Top Five
- 1. Accursio · Modica Bassa · Modern Sicilian · €60 lunch / €130 dinner
Sicily's most decorated chef cooking at home; the crispella alla Craparo dessert alone earns the star. Book the 60-euro lunch. - 2. La Locanda del Colonnello · Modica Alta · Modern Sicilian · €70 / €95–145
The canyon-view terrace at Palazzo Failla is the best seat in the upper town. Reserve the sunset slot. - 3. Fattoria delle Torri · Modica Alta · Modern Sicilian farm-to-table · €88 tasting
Peppe Barone's daughters now run the kitchen off the Iblei farms; the wood-fired dentice is the dish to order. - 4. Antica Dolceria Bonajuto · Modica Bassa · Pasticceria and chocolate · €4–18
Italy's oldest chocolate house, fifth generation, making cold-process cioccolato di Modica since 1880. A pilgrimage, not a meal. - 5. Osteria dei Sapori Perduti · Modica Bassa · Classic Modican Sicilian · €15–32
The trattoria locals send you to first; scaccia modicana and ravioli alla modicana, done without ceremony or markup.
Where to Eat by Occasion
First date
A first date in Modica wants a view or a low pulse, not a four-hour tasting. Take the terrace at La Locanda del Colonnello for the canyon at sunset, an afternoon over chocolate and Marsala at Bonajuto, or an unhurried dinner on the Corso at Sapori Perduti.
Proposal
For the question itself you want a room that feels like an occasion before the dessert arrives. The Palazzo Failla terrace at La Locanda del Colonnello is the obvious stage; Accursio and Fattoria delle Torri give you a starred kitchen and a quiet corner to do it.
Birthday
Birthdays here range from the splurge to the family table, and Modica covers both. Mark a big one at Accursio or Fattoria delle Torri; for a relaxed group dinner that still tastes of the town, Sapori Perduti is the room locals book.
Modica Dining FAQ
How far in advance should I book a Michelin-starred restaurant in Modica?
A week is enough in the shoulder seasons; allow three to four weeks for July and August and for the December Chocomodica festival. Accursio seats only 30 covers and Fattoria delle Torri fills early, so they are the first to close out. Book by phone or email, since not every kitchen lists on OpenTable.
What is the tipping convention in Modica?
Italian restaurants add a coperto (cover charge) of roughly two to four euros per person, which is not a tip. Service is included in the prices, so tipping is not expected. Rounding the bill up, or leaving five to ten percent for exceptional service, is read as generous rather than obligatory.
Which restaurants in Modica hold a Michelin star?
Three: Accursio, where Accursio Craparo has held one star since 2016; Fattoria delle Torri, the Barone family kitchen in Modica Alta; and La Locanda del Colonnello at Hotel Palazzo Failla. All three sit within a 1.5-kilometre walk of the Corso Umberto, which is rare density for a town of this size.
Is Modica worth visiting just for the chocolate?
Yes, but build a meal around it. Antica Dolceria Bonajuto on the Corso Umberto has made cold-process cioccolato di Modica since 1880 and is now run by the fifth generation under Pierpaolo Ruta. Pair a tasting there with lunch at Accursio or an unhurried dinner at Sapori Perduti.
What time do restaurants open for dinner in Modica?
Late, by northern-European habit. Kitchens open around 20:00 and fill by 21:00, and Sicilians rarely sit before then. Lunch is the value window: Accursio serves a 60-euro lunch tasting against roughly 130 euros at dinner, so the midday booking is the smart one if money matters.
What is the difference between Modica Alta and Modica Bassa for dinner?
Modica Bassa, the lower town, holds the Corso Umberto strip: Bonajuto, Sapori Perduti and Accursio sit along or just off it. Modica Alta, the upper town reached by a long baroque staircase, holds Fattoria delle Torri and La Locanda del Colonnello, the latter with the most photographed canyon-view terrace in the city.
Which Modica restaurant is best for a first date?
La Locanda del Colonnello, for the canyon-view terrace at Palazzo Failla at sunset. For something lower-key, Bonajuto works as an afternoon date over chocolate and Marsala, and Sapori Perduti gives you a relaxed, conversation-easy dinner on the Corso without a tasting-menu pace forcing silence between courses.
What should I order in Modica?
Start with cioccolato di Modica at Bonajuto. For dinner, the crispella alla Craparo dessert at Accursio is the dish the chef spent a decade refining; the wood-fired dentice at Fattoria delle Torri rewards the climb to Modica Alta; and scaccia modicana with ravioli alla modicana at Sapori Perduti is the honest Modican table.
Nearby Cities
South-eastern Sicily is dense with good tables within an hour's drive. See our guides to restaurants in Noto, dining in Siracusa, restaurants in Taormina and where to eat in Palermo, or browse the best Italian restaurants worldwide.
Compiled by the Restaurants for Kings editorial team from Michelin Guide listings and firsthand restaurant detail reviews. How we score. This guide contains affiliate reservation links; bookings made through them may earn RFK a commission at no cost to you.
The Modica List
Five editorial picks, ranked by the only filter that matters: why you are dining.
Accursio
Accursio Craparo's Michelin-starred Modica Bassa kitchen — Sicily's most decorated chef in his own restaurant, a 30-cover converted palazzo with €60 lunch.
La Locanda del Colonnello
Hotel Palazzo Failla's Michelin-starred dining room — a hand-painted 18th-century palazzo in Modica Alta with the most photographed canyon-view terrace in the city.
Fattoria delle Torri
Peppe Barone's Michelin-starred Modica Alta kitchen — now run by his daughters Sara and Elisa, with deep Iblei farm-to-table sourcing and the village's most architecturally distinctive dining setting.
Bonajuto
Italy's oldest continuously operating chocolate-maker — the 1880 Bonajuto pasticceria on Corso Umberto, supplier of cold-process Aztec chocolate to the Spanish Habsburg court.
Sapori Perduti
The Corso Umberto family trattoria — Modica's most authentic classic-Sicilian dining and the room locals push first-time visitors to.
Best for First Date in Modica
Intimate, conversation-friendly rooms. Impressive without being intimidating. The tables where first impressions are made.
Fattoria delle Torri
Peppe Barone's Michelin-starred Modica Alta kitchen — now run by his daughters Sara and Elisa, with deep Iblei farm-to-table sourcing and the village's most architecturally distinctive dining setting.
Bonajuto
Italy's oldest continuously operating chocolate-maker — the 1880 Bonajuto pasticceria on Corso Umberto, supplier of cold-process Aztec chocolate to the Spanish Habsburg court.
Best for Business Dinner in Modica
Power tables, private rooms, considered wine lists. Where the deal gets done.
Accursio
Accursio Craparo's Michelin-starred Modica Bassa kitchen — Sicily's most decorated chef in his own restaurant, a 30-cover converted palazzo with €60 lunch.
La Locanda del Colonnello
Hotel Palazzo Failla's Michelin-starred dining room — a hand-painted 18th-century palazzo in Modica Alta with the most photographed canyon-view terrace in the city.
The Top Five in Modica
Ranked against a single question: if you had one night in Modica, where would you go?
RFK Newsletter
New Modica restaurants, first.
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