L'Erba del Re

About L'Erba del Re

Situated in a recently restored period palazzo near the Piazza Pomposa and one of Modena's oldest churches, L'Erba del Re is the kind of restaurant that makes you recalibrate what a Michelin star actually represents. Chef Luca Marchini — Modenese by birth and by instinct — has held his one star for over a decade in a room of nine tables adorned with contemporary paintings, where the minimalism of the space focuses all attention on what arrives from the kitchen.

The tasting menu structure here is unusually thoughtful. Marchini offers four distinct paths: a menu focused on historic Emilian recipes executed at the highest level (tortellini in capon broth, tagliatelle in Modena-style ragù, cotechino with lentils); a second menu of his most recent creative work; a vegetarian option; and an à la carte selection that allows guests to compose their own meal from the restaurant's current repertoire. The traditional degustazione at 65 euros is, by any measure, the most underpriced Michelin-starred tasting menu in northern Italy.

The room itself communicates a particular form of Italian elegance — quiet, contemporary, without ostentation. White walls, natural light where available, and the kind of service that is attentive without performing attentiveness. The kitchen's relationship to Emilian tradition is one of deep respect expressed through technical advancement: every classic dish arrives better than you remembered it, which is the precise ambition of serious regional cooking.

Marchini's relationship with local producers shapes every aspect of the menu. The Parmigiano comes from a specific aging stage; the balsamic is traditional DOP, used sparingly and precisely; the pasta is made daily in the kitchen. The effect, across any of the tasting menus, is of a coherent culinary philosophy rather than a collection of dishes.

What to Order

The traditional Emilian tasting menu is the correct starting point. The tortellini in capon broth — served in a ceramic bowl with the broth poured tableside — is a technical benchmark that demonstrates exactly what separates this kitchen from the trattorias, however good those might be. The tagliatelle in Modena-style ragù answers the question of what a Michelin kitchen does with a dish every Emilian grandmother cooks. The answer is: it makes it flawlessly. The second dessert course, involving traditional balsamic vinegar in some form, is not to be refused.

For those choosing the creative menu, expect dishes that engage with Emilian pantry staples from unexpected angles — tortellini recontextualised, Parmigiano in forms beyond the expected, seasonal vegetables from the Po plain treated with the same seriousness as any protein. The vegetarian menu is genuinely conceived rather than adapted, and represents an honest alternative.

The Experience

Dinner at L'Erba del Re runs approximately two and a half hours for the tasting menu. The room is quiet enough for conversation at any table. The service team speaks English comfortably and is willing to elaborate at length on each dish's provenance and preparation. Reservations should be made two to four weeks ahead for weekends, one to two weeks ahead for midweek. The restaurant is closed Sunday and Monday.