Donovans

Donovans sits in St Kilda, and the room reads exactly the way the Melbourne dining establishment expects a modern european kitchen at this address to read — considered, particular, and exact about the things it cares about. Beach-house dining with serious silver service.

The cooking turns on signatures the Melbourne regulars order without looking at the menu: Lobster Linguine, Roast Duck, and Bombe Alaska. The kitchen runs at the $$$$ register, with a wine programme that is either deep where the room is loud and tight where the room is quiet, and a service floor that has clearly worked at this register before.

For a proposal dinner in Melbourne, this is one of the addresses you should already know about. Reservations skew hard; dress is smart casual. The averaged Food/Ambience/Value line sits at 9.1/10 — high enough to mean the room is doing more right than wrong, calibrated against the sharpest other tables in the city.

Beach-house dining with serious silver service. For a deeper read on this occasion across other cities, the Proposal guide is the canonical reference.