"Elaine Murphy's island-sourced Irish room above the old bookshop, three lunch courses for €26.95 — reserve a window seat for a first date."
About The Winding Stair
The window tables look straight down onto the Ha'penny Bridge. The Winding Stair sits above the bookshop of the same name at 40 Lower Ormond Quay, on the north bank of the Liffey, and the view across the river is half the reason to climb the stairs. The other half is the cooking.
Elaine Murphy reopened the room as a restaurant in 2006, with chef Ian Connolly, and held a single idea steady through the years since: Irish produce, Irish recipes, almost nothing sourced off the island bar coffee, tea and lemons. It has been a fixture of the Georgina Campbell guides ever since. For the wider field, see our fine-dining guide.
The Kitchen
The kitchen cooks old Irish recipes without irony or apology. Murphy's rule — produce from within the island, suppliers named on the menu — shapes every plate, and the food is honest home cooking done with care rather than tweezers. The dish that defines the room is Doyle's hand-smoked haddock, poached in milk with onions over a white-Cheddar mash: simple, regional, and exactly right.
Around it sit a slow-cooked ham hock and pea croquette with piccalilli mayo, and a Dublin-Hills whipped goat's cheese with Keeling's endive, beetroot relish and toasted hazelnuts. The clearest value is the weekday lunch, served noon to five Monday to Friday: three courses for €26.95, with a glass of house wine for a few euro more. The wine list runs to boutique makers from the new world and the old, and the beer list favours local micro-breweries.
The Room
The room keeps its bones — stripped wood tables and floors, bentwood café chairs, tall Georgian windows over the quay. It is small and warm, with tables close enough to feel full and lively but never industrial; the soundtrack is conversation and the river outside. Lighting is soft and daytime-bright at lunch, candle-low at night. There is no dress code worth the name; people come as they are, which is part of the charm. Ask for a window seat when you book — the bridge is the best table in the house.
Best for a First Date
Book The Winding Stair for a first date, because the room does the romance without trying: a window over the Ha'penny Bridge, warm light, close-but-not-cramped tables, and a short Irish menu that gives you something to talk about. It is just as good for an anniversary dinner over the river, and it sits in our Dublin dining guide among the city's most-loved rooms.
Not for
Not for a tasting-menu evening — this is short, hearty Irish home cooking, not a long degustation, and the room is snug rather than grand.
Frequently Asked
Is The Winding Stair worth it?
Yes, it is a Dublin institution for a reason. Elaine Murphy reopened the room above the old Ormond Quay bookshop in 2006 and has kept it honest since: island-sourced Irish produce, old recipes cooked with care, and a window over the Ha'penny Bridge. It is not cutting-edge cooking, but the value, the room and the view make it one of the city's most-loved tables.
What should I order at The Winding Stair?
Order Doyle's hand-smoked haddock, poached in milk with onions over white-Cheddar mash, the dish that defines the kitchen. The slow-cooked ham hock and pea croquette with piccalilli mayo and the Dublin-Hills whipped goat's cheese with Keeling's endive are the other plates to know. The weekday three-course lunch at 26.95 euro is the smartest way to eat here.
How much does The Winding Stair cost?
The weekday lunch, served noon to five Monday to Friday, is three courses for 26.95 euro, with a glass of house wine for a few euro more, the clearest value in the building. A la carte dinner costs more and runs a fuller Irish menu. The wine list favours boutique makers and the beer list local micro-breweries.
Is The Winding Stair good for a first date?
Yes. The small upstairs room does the romance without trying: a window over the Ha'penny Bridge, soft light, close-but-not-cramped tables and a short Irish menu that gives you something to talk about. Ask for a window seat when you book. It is just as good for an anniversary dinner over the river.
