8.7Food
8.5Ambience
7.5Value
The Room
Modern Steak opened in 2014 on 9th Avenue SE in Inglewood. Steve Smee runs the kitchen as a serious Alberta-beef programme with in-house dry-aging, a wood-fired grill and a small but disciplined seafood programme. The dining room seats 80; the bar is walk-in.
Service is brigade-Canadian, warm and well-paced.
The Food
The kitchen runs Cookshire ribeye, Lac-Brome New York strip, and a tomahawk-for-two that anchors the menu. The wine programme is American-French weighted with serious Bordeaux and Cabernet benches.
Best Occasion Fit
Close a Deal: Modern Steak is the Inglewood deal dinner for the agreement that wants the neighbourhood-quality register.
Birthday: Birthdays at Modern Steak are warm-and-classical. A candle, the tomahawk for the table, a Cabernet pairing.