8.5Food
8Ambience
9Value
The Room
El Desnivel opened on Defensa in San Telmo in 1996 — a serious neighbourhood-parrilla institution. Twenty-nine years later the room is one of Buenos Aires's most-photographed casual-parrilla destinations.
The format is intentionally casual: walk-in only, the line forms by 7pm.
The Food
The parrilla programme runs the canonical Argentine cuts at the casual register. The bife de chorizo, the asado de tira, the empanadas handle the menu's spine.
Wine programme is Argentine. Service is counter-and-runner.
Best Occasion Fit
First Date: El Desnivel is a casual San Telmo first-date alternative.
Team Dinner: El Desnivel handles team dinners better than most San Telmo counters.
Solo Dining: The counter at El Desnivel is one of Buenos Aires's better casual solo-dining seats.