The Building
Marlowe occupies the whole of Merivale Flats, a heritage-listed 1938 apartment building that for eight decades anchored the corner of Melbourne Street and Fish Lane in South Brisbane. Fanda Group. The operators who restored the building. Have turned it into nine distinct dining and bar spaces across two levels, plus a verdant rooftop terrace and four enclosed sunrooms. It is the most ambitious restaurant opening Brisbane has seen in a generation, and it has delivered on the ambition.
The genius of Marlowe is that no two rooms are alike. The formal dining room downstairs is painted deep green and furnished with heavy velvet banquettes. The rooftop is all cane, timber, and string lights. The sunrooms are for couples. The library is for cocktails before dinner. The raw bar counter. Where oysters are shucked to order and whole fish are carved in front of the guest. Is the best theatre in the building. You can spend an evening moving from room to room without leaving the restaurant, and many of Brisbane's best birthday parties now do exactly that.
The Menu
The menu reads as Modern Australian bistro with an unapologetic Queensland bias. The raw bar showcases Sydney rock and Coffin Bay oysters, crudo of local line-caught fish, and cured seafood preparations that change with the market. The signature. The dish around which the restaurant's early reviews were written. Is the coral trout Wellington, a whole fillet of local trout wrapped in pastry and finished with a rich caviar butter sauce. It is plated at the table and shared between two, which is exactly the kind of dish Marlowe's ambitious format demands.
Elsewhere on the menu, the cooking is confident and comforting. A roasted chicken for two, steaks cut from Queensland's best producers, and pasta that respects its lineage. The dessert trolley is a throwback to a form of theatre Brisbane has largely lost. The wine list is extensive, biased toward Australia, and priced with the restraint that a neighbourhood-loved institution should observe. Cocktails, particularly the martinis, are uncommonly good.
The Scene
Marlowe has, within months of opening, become the booking that matters in Brisbane for groups. The rooftop is reservable for private birthdays and has hosted almost every celebrity wedding reception the city has held since the building reopened. The sunrooms are the city's best-hidden proposal spots. The main dining room is the kind of room where a birthday dinner for ten becomes a memory, not merely a meal. Reservations run 2 to 4 weeks out; rooftop bookings longer.