Dva Jelena has stood on Skadarska Street since 1832, which makes it one of the oldest kafanas in Belgrade and the anchor of Skadarlija, the cobbled quarter the city calls its Montmartre. The chef Žarko Dačić wrote the menus that made its name in 1921 and 1928, and the kitchen still cooks from that Serbian tradition: grilled meats, the steak Čika Đura and the Noazete for two. A meal runs around 2,500 dinars a head. Đura Jakšić and, later, guests from Tito to Margaret Thatcher have eaten in its painted rooms.
The Kitchen
Dva Jelena is a kafana, the Serbian tavern-restaurant, run today as a family-style house rather than a chef-driven kitchen. Its culinary identity was set by chef Žarko Dačić, who wrote the famous menus in 1921 and 1928, and the cooking has stayed close to that template ever since. The strength is the grill and the slow-cooked classics: the steak Čika Đura, the Noazete for two with fillet, mushrooms and a cream sauce, medallions done the Skadarlija way, plus smoked trout and Serbian standards like prebranac beans.
Prices are gentle for the quality of the room. The average spend is about 2,500 dinars a head, with starters such as fried peppers with cheese at 830 dinars and a plate of prebranac around 600 dinars; a full dinner with rakija and wine sits closer to 3,000 to 4,000 dinars. The restaurant has run continuously since 1832 at Skadarska 32, spreads across five halls and two summer terraces, and pours domestic wines and rakija alongside live starogradska, the old-town music of Belgrade.
The Room
The rooms carry early-twentieth-century Belgrade: Art Nouveau murals, dark wood panels and repurposed gas lamps across five connected halls, with two terraces for summer. On a typical night a band plays starogradska between the tables, so the sound level climbs warm and loud rather than quiet; this is a room for singing along, not for a hushed conversation. Lighting is low and amber. Tables run from couples to long group settings, and the kitchen is used to big celebrations. Dress is smart-casual; locals dress up a little for Skadarlija. Service is brisk and friendly, and the rakija arrives quickly.
Best for Birthday
Book Dva Jelena for a birthday because a kafana is built for exactly this. The live starogradska band turns a table into a party, the long menu of grilled meats and shared plates feeds a big group without fuss, and the painted rooms give a sense of occasion that a modern restaurant cannot fake. Picture a long table in one of the halls, the Noazete and a mixed grill down the middle, a bottle of rakija and the band leaning in for a toast. For a celebration with a crowd in Belgrade, this is the room. See more restaurants for a birthday dinner.
Not for a quiet conversation. A live band plays across the halls most nights, so two people hoping to talk softly will end up talking over the music.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Dva Jelena worth it?
Yes, for the setting and the history as much as the food. Dva Jelena has run since 1832 in Skadarlija, the cooking is solid traditional Serbian rather than refined, and the live starogradska music and painted halls are the real draw. Prices are fair, around 2,500 dinars a head. Come for the atmosphere of an old Belgrade kafana and a long, lively dinner, not for cutting-edge plates.
What is Dva Jelena known for?
Dva Jelena is known as one of Belgrade's oldest kafanas, open since 1832 in the Skadarlija quarter. Its signature dishes are the steak Čika Đura and the Noazete for two, and it is famous for live starogradska music and a guest list that has run from the poet Đura Jakšić to Tito and Margaret Thatcher. The painted Art Nouveau halls are part of the appeal. See the Belgrade dining guide for more.
How much does dinner cost at Dva Jelena?
Expect around 2,500 dinars per person on average, with a full dinner of grilled meats, rakija and wine closer to 3,000 to 4,000 dinars. Starters are inexpensive, such as fried peppers with cheese at 830 dinars and prebranac beans around 600. It is good value for a historic Skadarlija room, and larger group menus can be arranged for celebrations.
Is Dva Jelena good for a birthday or group dinner?
Yes. Dva Jelena is one of the best rooms in Belgrade for a birthday or a big group, thanks to the live band, the long menu of shared grills and the five halls that handle large bookings. Reserve a table in advance and ask about a set menu for the group. Time it for an evening when the band plays. See our birthday dinner picks.