Head-to-Head · Munich

JAN vs Tohru in der Schreiberei

Munich's two three-star tables: Jan Hartwig's refined Franco-German classicism against Tohru Nakamura's German-Japanese fusion. Book JAN for polish, Tohru for cross-cultural nerve.

JAN

Maxvorstadt · Modern French-German · 3 Michelin stars · Food 9 / Room 9 / Value 8

JAN full review →

Tohru in der Schreiberei

Altstadt · German-Japanese-French · 3 Michelin stars · Food 9 / Room 9 / Value 8

Tohru in der Schreiberei full review →

The Verdict

JAN is the classicist. Jan Hartwig opened his eponymous restaurant on Luisenstrasse near Konigsplatz in May 2022, having already earned three stars at his previous kitchen, and reclaimed all three at JAN within months, one of the fastest ascents in German dining. The cooking bridges French haute technique and German classics, turning meatloaf, egg with mustard sauce and Handkas mit Musik into precise, layered dishes across a fixed seven-course menu. It scores 9 for food, 9 for the room and 8 for value, and it is the more polished, Franco-German of the two.

Tohru in der Schreiberei is the bridge-builder. Munich-born, German-Japanese chef Tohru Nakamura earned his third star in 2025, making his restaurant the second three-star table in the city, set in the Schreiberei, one of Munich's oldest townhouses. His cooking moves between Japanese, French and Bavarian registers within a single dish, tilting the balance one way then the other. It scores 9 for food, 9 for the room and 8 for value, and it is the more cross-cultural, adventurous of the two.

Both hold three stars and both bridge cultures, so the choice is accent. JAN leans French-German and classical, the more composed and refined plate; Tohru leans German-Japanese and exploratory, the more surprising one. One perfects a tradition, the other crosses several.

Scores, Side by Side

Score	JAN	Tohru in der Schreiberei
Food	9 / 10	9 / 10
Atmosphere	9 / 10	9 / 10
Value	8 / 10	8 / 10

Which One for Which Occasion

Occasion	Editorial Pick
A classical three-star dinner	JANJan Hartwig's Franco-German precision and fixed seven-course menu make it the more polished, traditional choice.
An adventurous, cross-cultural meal	Tohru in der SchreibereiTohru Nakamura's German-Japanese-French cooking is built for diners who want surprise over orthodoxy.
A milestone celebration	JANOne of the fastest three-star ascents in German history makes JAN the table with the bigger occasion story.
A design-and-history setting	Tohru in der SchreibereiDining in one of Munich's oldest townhouses gives Tohru the more atmospheric, historic room.
A connoisseur's treat	JANReworked German classics under French technique reward a diner who knows the canon being reinvented.

Price and How to Book

The split is classicism versus crossover. JAN seats its Maxvorstadt room near Konigsplatz, runs a fixed seven-course menu and books well ahead for its three-star service; the full picture is in the JAN review. Tohru in der Schreiberei serves Tohru Nakamura's German-Japanese menu in a historic Altstadt townhouse and also releases tables in advance; the detail sits in the Tohru review. Both anchor our Munich dining guide.

For cuisine context, weigh JAN against the best modern European restaurants worldwide and Tohru against the world's finest Japanese-influenced kitchens. For occasion fit, see our picks for an anniversary and a first date. More Munich match-ups sit on the compare index, including JAN vs Tantris.

Frequently Asked Questions

Which is better, JAN or Tohru in der Schreiberei?

Both hold three Michelin stars, so it is a question of accent. JAN is Jan Hartwig's refined Franco-German classicism near Konigsplatz, the more polished and traditional plate. Tohru in der Schreiberei is Tohru Nakamura's German-Japanese-French crossover in a historic Altstadt townhouse, the more adventurous one. Book JAN for classical precision and Tohru for cross-cultural surprise. Both lead our Munich dining guide.

How much do JAN and Tohru cost?

Both are three-star tables priced for a once-a-year occasion, charging several hundred euros a head for their menus before wine. JAN runs a fixed seven-course menu that can be shortened at lunch, while Tohru serves a comparable multi-course tasting. Each scores 8 for value, strong for the tier, because the cooking justifies the outlay. Add a wine pairing only if the budget allows, and treat either as a milestone dinner.

How hard is it to book JAN or Tohru?

Both are among the hardest seats in Munich, each holding three stars and seating a small room, so tables release weeks ahead and weekend services go first. JAN, near Konigsplatz, and Tohru, in the Altstadt, both reward booking as early as the calendar allows and flexibility on the date. For either, plan around the wider Munich dining guide and aim for a weeknight if you can.

What should I order at JAN and Tohru?

Both serve a set tasting rather than a la carte. At JAN, the fixed seven-course menu runs through Jan Hartwig's reworked German classics under French technique, from his egg with mustard sauce to Handkas mit Musik. At Tohru in der Schreiberei, follow Tohru Nakamura's German-Japanese sequence, where Bavarian, French and Japanese elements meet in single dishes. See both in our Munich dining guide.