Firedoor
Fire counter: books six months ahead, first Wednesday at noon
Firedoor is the chef's-table benchmark in Sydney, chef Lennox Hastie's Surry Hills room where every dish comes off two wood-fired ovens, three grills and a hearth, with no gas or electricity in the kitchen. The seats at the stainless pass put you directly in front of the fire and the plating, and they are the ones to want.
Dinner is a six-course set menu at 235 dollars, with a three-course lunch at 155 dollars. Reservations open six months in advance on the first Wednesday of each month at noon Sydney time, and counter seats go first, so be online when the window opens.
