Smallwares

Smallwares sits in Fremont, and the room reads exactly the way the Portland dining establishment expects a modern asian kitchen at this address to read — considered, particular, and exact about the things it cares about. Open-kitchen Asian-fusion — chef-driven.

The cooking turns on signatures the Portland regulars order without looking at the menu: Wagyu Tataki, Pad Thai, and Soft Serve. The kitchen runs at the $$$ register, with a wine programme that is either deep where the room is loud and tight where the room is quiet, and a service floor that has clearly worked at this register before.

For a first date dinner in Portland, this is one of the addresses you should already know about. Reservations skew hard; dress is smart casual. The averaged Food/Ambience/Value line sits at 9.0/10 — high enough to mean the room is doing more right than wrong, calibrated against the sharpest other tables in the city.

Open-kitchen Asian-fusion — chef-driven. For a deeper read on this occasion across other cities, the First Date guide is the canonical reference.