"Akkapong Earl Ninsom's 24-seat Thai tasting counter, the 2024 James Beard Outstanding Restaurant, built for a special-occasion dinner."
About Langbaan
Langbaan, Thai for "back of the house," is a 24-seat counter tucked behind chef Akkapong "Earl" Ninsom's Phuket Cafe on NW 23rd Place. In 2024 it won the James Beard Outstanding Restaurant award, the category's first Thai winner and its first for Portland, the birthplace of James Beard himself. It is the standout Thai table in our Portland guide.
It was one of the first restaurants in the United States to run an entirely Thai tasting menu, and the kitchen rebuilds that menu every two months around a different region of Thailand. The room moved from its original Southeast Portland home to Nob Hill in 2021.
The Kitchen
The format is a five-course tasting menu at around $145, built on Ninsom's research into the cooking of a specific Thai region and finished with Pacific Northwest produce. Dishes rotate constantly, so the experience changes with each two-month chapter rather than settling into a fixed greatest-hits list. Reservations release in one-month blocks and go quickly.
The Room
With only 24 seats around a counter, the room is close and quiet, with the cooking unfolding in front of you. It is an intimate, ticketed-feeling evening rather than a casual drop-in, and the scale makes it feel like a private event. That focus is exactly what makes it land for a milestone.
Best for a milestone dinner or a client treat
Reserve the tasting for an anniversary or a proposal; the counter seating and award pedigree also make it a memorable way to impress a client.
Not for
A spontaneous walk-in or a low-key cheap dinner: seats are few, reservations release monthly, and the format is a fixed multi-course menu.
Frequently Asked
Did Langbaan win a James Beard Award?
Yes. Langbaan won the James Beard Outstanding Restaurant award in 2024, the category's first Thai winner and its first for Portland, the birthplace of James Beard.
Who is the chef at Langbaan?
Langbaan is one of several restaurants from chef Akkapong 'Earl' Ninsom. It sits behind his Phuket Cafe on NW 23rd Place.
How much is the tasting menu at Langbaan?
Langbaan serves a five-course Thai tasting menu priced at around $145 per person, with reservations released in one-month blocks.
Where is Langbaan in Portland?
It is a 24-seat counter inside Phuket Cafe at 1818 NW 23rd Place in Portland's Nob Hill, having moved from its original Southeast Portland home in 2021.
How does the Langbaan menu change?
The kitchen rebuilds the five-course menu every two months around a different region of Thailand, finished with Pacific Northwest ingredients, so the experience changes through the year.
Reserve a Table
Reserve at Langbaan
Reservations release in monthly blocks and sell out fast; book early.
Affiliate disclosure: Restaurants for Kings may earn a commission when you book through our reservation links, at no cost to you. Our scores are editorial and never paid for.
Practical Information
Address1818 NW 23rd Place, Portland, OR 97210
NeighbourhoodNob Hill / NW 23rd (inside Phuket Cafe)
CuisineRegional Thai tasting menu
Price$$$$ · five-course approx. $145
Recognition2024 James Beard Outstanding Restaurant
SignatureRotating regional Thai five-course menu
