"Giovanni Passerini's Roman sharing table near Aligre — crab tortelli and fresh pasta, in the 2026 Michelin Guide. Book for a first date."
About Passerini
The kitchen sits open behind the pass at 65 rue Traversière, a short walk from the Marché d'Aligre in the 12th, and almost everything that matters comes off it within sight of the room. Giovanni Passerini cooks the Rome he grew up with rather than a postcard of it: offal, bitter greens, anchovy, and pasta rolled the same morning. The format is plates in the middle of the table, ordered to share, which sets the tempo for the night. The dining room runs to roughly forty covers across terrazzo floors and pale wood, with a few counter seats facing the cooks.
The Kitchen
Giovanni Passerini trained in Paris under Petter Nilsson and ran the original Rino in the 11th before opening here in 2016. His trippa alla romana — tripe braised with tomato, mint and pecorino — is the dish regulars order on sight, and the tortelli de tourteau, crab parcels with squash and bergamot in a miso sabayon, is the one the kitchen will not take off the list. Pasta is made daily; shared plates run €85–150 and individual pastas €26–31, so a full dinner lands around €55–110 a head before wine. The weekday lunch tasting is €52. Passerini is listed in the 2026 Michelin Guide France and on the World's 50 Best Discovery roster, and the same block holds his grocery, the Pastificio Passerini, and the wine bar la Passerina. For the wider field, see our best Italian restaurants worldwide guide.
The Room
Sound sits at a steady hum that climbs by nine; this is not a room for whispering. Lighting is bright enough to read the menu and watch the pass, table spacing is generous along the terrazzo but tighter at the window two-tops, and the dress code is smart-casual with no enforcement. Around forty seats, plus a handful at the counter for solo diners who want to watch the pasta station. Service is fast, Italian-direct, and unbothered by ceremony.
Best for a First Date
Book this room for a first date because the sharing format gives you something to do with your hands, the noise covers any early-evening silence, and the bill stays sane if the night goes well. The pasta arrives quickly, so there is no forty-minute wait staring across the table. Order the crab tortelli and a plate of the day, split a litre of Lazio white, and let the room carry the conversation. For a quieter Paris evening compare Le Baratin; for oysters first try Clamato a few streets east.
Not for
Skip Passerini if you want a quiet tête-à-tête — the room is loud by mid-evening, the window tables are tight, and the whole format is built for plates passed across the table.
Frequently Asked
Is Passerini worth it?
Yes, if you like Roman cooking done without nostalgia. Giovanni Passerini makes some of the best fresh pasta in Paris, the trippa alla romana and crab tortelli are genuinely distinctive, and the 2026 Michelin Guide listing reflects the kitchen's consistency. Expect around €55–110 a head before wine, which is fair for this quality near the Marche d'Aligre.
How hard is it to book Passerini?
Plan two to three weeks ahead for a Friday or Saturday; weeknights open up closer in. Booking is direct through the restaurant's website or by phone, and there is no Tock or Resy window to game. Lunch is easier than dinner, and the weekday €52 tasting is the simplest way in if your dates are tight.
What is the dress code at Passerini?
Smart-casual, and nobody will turn you away for less. This is a serious kitchen in a relaxed Roman-trattoria setting, so a shirt or a nice top is plenty; jackets are not expected. The mood is neighbourhood-confident rather than formal, in keeping with its 12th-arrondissement address off the Aligre market.
What should I order at Passerini?
Start with the trippa alla romana if you eat offal, then the tortelli de tourteau — crab with squash, bergamot and a miso sabayon — which the kitchen keeps on permanently. Add one daily sharing plate and whatever pasta the room is talking about. The Lazio and wider Italian wine list, also poured next door at la Passerina, is built for this food.
Reserve a Table
Reserve at Passerini
Books two to three weeks ahead for weekends. Direct booking via the restaurant; lunch is easier than dinner.
Affiliate disclosure: Restaurants for Kings may earn a commission when you book through our reservation links, at no cost to you. Our scores are editorial and never paid for.
Practical Information
Address65 rue Traversière, 75012
NeighbourhoodAligre, 12th
CuisineItalian
PriceÀ la carte €54–71; pasta €26–31; sharing plates €85–150; lunch tasting €52
Dress CodeSmart-casual
Seating~40 + counter
ReservationDirect / website
