Dirt Candy
Format: a fixed five-course vegetarian tasting; a vegan version is always available
Dirt Candy is the only New York room built entirely around a vegetarian tasting, so it is the natural first stop. Chef Amanda Cohen has cooked nothing but vegetables since 2008, and her five-course set menu on the Lower East Side is technical and witty rather than earnest, with dishes that treat broccoli or beets the way another kitchen treats a prime cut. The price is $110 before drinks, with a $55 wine pairing, and a full vegan version runs in parallel. The kitchen takes no further substitutions, and serves Tuesday to Saturday.
