Galatoire's

Galatoire's sits in French Quarter, and the room reads exactly the way the New Orleans dining establishment expects a french-creole kitchen at this address to read — considered, particular, and exact about the things it cares about. Living institution — long-tablecloth lunches and famous Friday crowd.

The cooking turns on signatures the New Orleans regulars order without looking at the menu: Soufflé Potatoes, Trout Meunière, and Crabmeat Maison. The kitchen runs at the $$$$ register, with a wine programme that is either deep where the room is loud and tight where the room is quiet, and a service floor that has clearly worked at this register before.

For a birthday dinner in New Orleans, this is one of the addresses you should already know about. Reservations skew hard; dress is jacket required. The averaged Food/Ambience/Value line sits at 9.1/10 — high enough to mean the room is doing more right than wrong, calibrated against the sharpest other tables in the city.

Living institution — long-tablecloth lunches and famous Friday crowd. For a deeper read on this occasion across other cities, the Birthday guide is the canonical reference.