Morioka, Japan — Sushi (Edomae)
#4 in Morioka

Sushi Koji

The eleven-seat Edomae sushi counter near Morioka Castle ruins — Sanriku-coast fish, Tokyo-pedigree technique, the city's most serious counter dinner.
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Photo via Karen Wee · Google

About Sushi Koji

Sushi Koji is a small eleven-seat counter sushi room three minutes' walk from the Morioka Castle ruins, run by a chef who trained at a Ginza two-star room before opening his own counter in 2013. The omakase is one length — eighteen pieces — and the ingredients are sourced primarily from the Sanriku coast (Otsuchi, Kamaishi, Miyako), which has supplied Tohoku sushi rooms with some of Japan's best cold-water seafood since the modern fishing era began in the 1880s.

The technique is Edomae proper. The maguro is aged forty-eight hours and brushed with a house nikiri; the kohada is salt-and-vinegar cured for ninety minutes; the anago is simmered and brushed with a tsume the chef has kept in continuous use since opening. What separates Sushi Koji from Tokyo equivalents is the Tohoku-specific ingredient access — Sanriku uni, Miyako sea bream, Kamaishi flounder, Iwate-coast salmon roe in October — and the chef's quiet narration of provenance for each piece.

Reservations are taken by phone in Japanese two-to-three weeks ahead. Hotel concierges (the Hotel Metropolitan Morioka, the Hotel ROUTE-INN) can book on your behalf. The omakase runs ¥22,000 weeknights and ¥26,000 wit