"One of Milan's best-value tables - surfer-turned-chef Federico Sisti's Bib Gourmand cooking, anchored by a famously tall veal Milanese."
Frangente sits on Via Panfilo Castaldi near Porta Venezia and Piazza della Repubblica in Milan, the solo project of chef Federico Sisti - a Romagnolo who came to cooking after years as a surfer, and named the restaurant for the moment a wave breaks against the coast.
The kitchen earns a Michelin Bib Gourmand for good cooking at a fair price. It anchors part of our Italian coverage in the city.
Sisti cooks seasonal, contemporary versions of regional classics from Lombardy and neighbouring Emilia-Romagna. The signature is his cotoletta alla milanese - cut from a thick filet rather than a thin cutlet, tall and succulent - alongside strozzapreti allo scoglio and a risotto with Taleggio, pumpkin and hazelnuts. The menu changes with what is good that week.
It is direct, generous cooking with no fuss, the sort of food that rewards a return visit rather than a single set-piece.
The room is small and modern, with an open kitchen that puts Sisti and his team in plain view. It is relaxed and unshowy - tightly packed tables, a warm welcome, and the easy energy of a chef cooking what he likes.
Because it is compact and popular, it books up; reserve ahead, especially for dinner and weekends.
Frangente suits an easy first date, a contented solo dinner at the counter, or a small team dinner. For other Milan tables, compare Da Giacomo, Contraste or Berton.
Not for a grand, white-tablecloth occasion or a large party - it is a small, informal open-kitchen room built around honest cooking, not ceremony.
Chef Federico Sisti's contemporary takes on Lombard and Emilian classics - above all a tall veal Milanese cut from a thick filet, plus strozzapreti allo scoglio and a Taleggio, pumpkin and hazelnut risotto - all at Bib Gourmand value.
On Via Panfilo Castaldi near Porta Venezia and Piazza della Repubblica, just northeast of the city centre.
It sits in the affordable $$ range - mains run roughly EUR 16-26, with the signature tall veal Milanese around EUR 24.
Yes - it holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand, the guide's mark for good cooking at a moderate price.
Federico Sisti, a Romagnolo who came to cooking after years as a surfer and named the restaurant for the breaking of a wave. Frangente is his solo project.
Booking is advised - the room is small and fills fast. Phone +39 02 9684 4851. Dinner and weekends are the busiest services.
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Frangente anchors part of our Milan guide - chef Federico Sisti's Bib Gourmand cooking and its famously tall veal Milanese near Porta Venezia.
See the Milan guide →