Pujol
The barra: an eleven-seat Barra de Tacos; four seatings a day
Pujol's taco bar is the city's signature counter. Enrique Olvera holds two Michelin stars in the 2024 Guide, and alongside the formal tasting menu he runs the Barra de Tacos, eleven seats where a taco omakase moves from bluefin tuna scattered with ants to a soft-shell-crab taco with plantain. There are four seatings across the day, each a three-hour run through antojitos and botanas built to be eaten with your hands at a low counter. It is the chef's table for someone who wants Mexico's most influential kitchen at its most playful. Book the barra through the restaurant's site the moment a month opens.