Mocking

Mocking — Das Wirtshaus is the chef-driven mid-village dining room of Marco Gatterer, a Tyrolean-born chef who took over the Florianigasse townhouse in 2024 and was awarded the 2026 Michelin Bib Gourmand as Austria's highest-ranked newcomer. The room is the most architecturally distinctive of the village's mid-tier dining rooms — a converted 18th-century townhouse with the original stone walls exposed, a single open-flame grill at the back wall, hand-carved larch beams, and forty-two covers across two rooms.

The menu is short and seasonal — a dozen à la carte plates rewritten monthly, plus a five-course chef-pick tasting at €78 — and unapologetically Tyrolean in sourcing. A hand-rolled Schlutzkrapfen with sheep's-cheese filling and brown butter; a slow-cooked Tyrolean lamb shoulder with thyme and Polenta; a smoked Tegernsee char with horseradish butter; a wood-fired Almochsen entrecôte for the table; the famous 'Mocking-Apfelstrudel' that uses a 200-year-old family recipe.

The wine list is one of the most interesting in the village — 250 references built around Austrian smallholders, including a few cult bottlings that the larger village cellars do not carry. Glass pours start at €7 and the corkage philosophy is forgiving for a guest who wants to bring their own bottle. Sommelier Theresa Stadlober runs the floor and is one of the village's most engaging by-the-glass commentators.

The room runs at a moderate volume — the cellar walls absorb sound, the booking math caps at forty-two covers, and the chef's-counter is a meaningfully different format from the village's brasseries. Mocking is also the room that the village's serious cooks (the chef teams from Tennerhof, Les Deux, the Schwarzer Adler) take their nights off in. It is, by quiet local consensus, the most reliable mid-tier dinner in Kitzbühel and the room first-time Hahnenkamm-week visitors should reserve before any of the splurge addresses.

Mocking is the easy-first-date room in Kitzbühel — quieter than the Schwarzer Adler, less formal than Les Deux, and chef-driven enough to be a meaningful conversation starter. The chef's-counter is a strong format for a date as it removes the across-the-table awkwardness of a four-course tasting. Book the counter two-top at the right end nearest the open-flame grill.